The Milford Track - New Zealand - Ultimate Walks
5 days, 4 nights in March 2025
Words by Mal James and pictures by Ultimate Hikes and some of the wonderful crew I walked with
Escaping the Noise: 5 Magical Days on the Milford Track
Our current world feels like it’s led by the negative. Tear it down. Complain about others. Scream as loud as you can about what’s wrong—especially how you’ve been wronged, how bad others are, and how urgently everything needs to change.
Fair enough… but that kind of conversation doesn’t really float my boat.
There’s another world. And for some magical days, I got to live in it.
Three weeks ago, I was doing whatever I was doing, scrolling, reading—who knows—and there it was: a little side advertisement.
“1 vacancy left.”
One spot. Two weeks from now. The Milford Track in New Zealand.
I paused. Bugger it, I thought.
I’m so busy…
Naaa…
Yeah…
I’ve always wanted to go…
Bang. Booked.
Fast forward two weeks. It’s Wednesday morning and I’m sitting in the Tullamarine lounge, sipping a coffee, waiting for my flight to Queenstown. Check-in took all of 20 minutes—security, border force, done. I’m flying economy, but it’s easy. It’s 8:00am and I’m already relaxing.
Boarding time.
I love this flight—Air New Zealand direct into Queenstown. Less than three hours. Loads of legroom. Super friendly. Cost me $345. I’m into a book—Diary of a CEO—great read.
Finished it in a day, actually learnt some stuff too.
We land. Through immigration. Onto a bus. By mid-afternoon, I’m in Queenstown.
Checked into Adventure Queenstown Hostel—$69 a night. Then straight down to Ultimate Hikes to check in for tomorrow’s start.
Time to kill? Easy choice: up the Skyline Gondola for $83NZ. I love this place. At the top? My guilty pleasure—3 luge rides.
You race down the mountain track like a total idiot, trying to pass as many scaredy-cats as you can. You hit the brakes at the end, laughing, wind in your face, and realise just how childish you are—and how much fun that still is.
Three rides later (included in the Gondola ticket), I was back down the mountain. Back to the hostel. Early night. Ready for tomorrow
Day 1: Into the Wild
The next morning starts just right—coffee at Vudu. A walk around town. I love Queenstown. It’s fresh, it’s friendly, and it has that buzzing sense of anticipation… that “what will today bring?” feeling.
Then we’re off. Loaded onto the bus and headed for Milford Sound—50 of us in total. Everything runs with military precision, but still feels relaxed. Comfortable seats, stunning scenery rolling past the window.
Lunch is served—surprisingly tasty—and then, without much fuss, we’re on a boat, cutting across the dark waters around Te Anua.
Ahead lies the Clinton Hut, our home for the night. And with it, the official start of the Milford Track.
The real adventure begins here.
The Milford Track, dubbed “the finest walk in the world,” by the London Spectator in 1908, is a legendary 53.5 km hike through New Zealand’s Fiordland National Park.
This spectacular journey, taking three days to complete, winds through ancient rainforests, glacial valleys, alpine passes, and ends at the stunning Milford Sound.
Renowned for its breathtaking beauty, the track has attracted adventurers, writers, and royalty. Sir Edmund Hillary once called Fiordland “one of the most stunning places on Earth,” reflecting the awe many feel when walking its paths.
From the serene waters of Lake Te Anau to the misty heights of MacKinnon Pass, it’s a journey that humbles and uplifts. As Rudyard Kipling reportedly said, “It is a place where one discovers the majesty of silence.”
Clinton Hut: Night 1
Off the boat… through a boot wash to keep this pristine place exactly that—pristine. Just a short walk with my pack, and we arrive at Clinton Hut, the starting point of the legendary Milford Track.
Already, I’m feeling the shift. Slower pace. Simpler focus. Deeper breaths.
I’m bunking with two Korean hikers—one now living in the US, the other clearly visiting from Korea as he doesn’t speak English. We smile, we nod, we laugh—language barriers don’t stand a chance out here. Then it’s off to dinner and our first group briefing.
The Guides and the Company That Nailed It
Now’s a good time to talk about our guides—Mena, Indy, and the rest of the crew from Ultimate Hikes.
They were fantastic—but even more impressive was the company itself. It’s rare to come across a business that runs this well. From the moment the trip began, nothing was missed. Every checklist, every detail—done. I had zero suggestions for improvement. Seriously.
The culture was obvious too—these people loved their work. You could feel it. They were thoughtful, they cared, and they went the extra mile in ways that felt authentic. Every interaction, every service moment, felt intentional. And that level of consistency? It starts at the top.
Ultimate Hikes charged $2,750 NZD, and in my view? Worth every cent. And yes—there are discounts if you go back. Which I absolutely will.
A Meal to Remember
Dinner that first night was a surprise. One to two-hat restaurant quality—no exaggeration. Three courses. Multiple options. Fresh, tasty, and healthy. It was plated and served like we were in a fine dining lodge, only it was our guides playing the part of chefs and waiters.
And here’s the kicker: it wasn’t just the first night. Every meal—breakfasts, DIY lunches, dinners—was just as good. Better, even. Food like this, out here? World-class.
The Group
After dinner, we had our first group briefing. Introductions, a bit of banter. Roughly a third of us were Australians, a third Kiwis, and the rest from all over. 50/50 gender split, and most people came in groups.
I ended up spending a lot of time with two groups:
- Four New Zealand women in their 50s, on a girls’ holiday—especially Rhonda and Amanda, who were a delight.
- Two Aussie gynaecologists from Orange, NSW. Also in their 50s. For a while I thought they were a couple—they talked about “their daughters”—only to later find out they each had four kids. Separately! Miguel (Orange No. 1) was a funny guy—originally from Uruguay (which, he’d remind us, is not Argentina). Andrew (Orange No. 2) was more serious, but equally engaging. Different vibes, same solid company.
Stillness in Motion
And so, after dinner, the intros, and the briefing… I found a quiet moment by the river’s edge.
Just sitting. Watching. Thinking how lucky I am.
There’s something about a river—especially one bordered by a soft, grassy field in front and deep, almost menacing mountains behind—that always draws me inward.
It’s a place for introspection.
Like life, a river is always moving… never quite the same.
Yet somehow, it’s still. A moment in time.
And in some quiet way… it is always the same.
Day 2 – Into the Magic
Up.
“Good morning, good morning, good morning to you!”
Yes, I slept well, thank you—how did you?
A few quick chats, smiles all round.
Then it’s over to the breakfast spread—bacon, eggs, coffee, juice—and the make-your-own lunch station, which is basically a deli on a bench. Wraps, rolls, fresh ingredients for every taste.
Pack loaded. Boots on. 8:30am. We’re off.
What followed was about six hours of the most magical walking.
The Clinton River
It’s hard to describe the Clinton River in a way that truly captures its serenity, its timelessness, its quiet majesty.
But I’ll try.
Imagine this: you’re being massaged by a beautiful woman while gazing out the window of the most scenic train ride on Earth—dreaming of joyful times with the people you love. That’s what walking along the Clinton River feels like.
The track winds gently beside its crystal-clear waters. I walked alone for much of it, soaking in the silence. Every so often, I’d cross paths with a fellow hiker—what I’ve come to call fellow transcenders.
Because that’s what this is.
It’s not just a hike.
Flat Paths, Cold Swims & Pompolona Lodge
The day’s walk was mostly flat, a lovely meander along well-kept paths. As I said, interrupted only by a stop for lunch, a spontaneous cold water swim (where, I was told, I have a memorable bum), and a bit of elevation toward the end as we climbed into Pompolona Lodge.
Did I say these hours were truly magical. Another feeling was like walking through a movie set—except there were no actors, no downtime, just a seamless flow of beauty, step after step.
And a good part? I never once thought about my phone.
There is—joyously—no coverage for the entire trip.
The world didn’t miss me.
And I didn’t miss it.
(Sorry, world.)
The Lodges: Wilderness Meets Comfort
The lodges are something else.
- Thoughtfully designed, comfortable, and with everything you need:
- Drying rooms—so you can carry less and dry more.
- Hot showers and real toilets—a luxury that lets you sparkle up for dinner and conversation.
- Living areas—spaces to sit, sip (yep the wine is good), chat, laugh.
- And yes, restaurant-quality meals in the middle of nowhere.
All of it deep in the wilderness—and yet all of it somehow respecting the wilderness. Nothing felt out of place. Nothing felt like too much.
On the Kiwis
Now let’s talk about New Zealanders.
They’re a classy lot—at least the ones you meet on these kinds of walks. Easygoing, generous, present. The kind of people Aussies used to be a few decades ago, before we decided to get serious and join the rest of the world.
Don’t get me wrong—I love Aussies (I am one, after all).
But those bloody New Zealanders…
They’re like the younger sibling we all wish we were:
That “no worries, mate” attitude… the larrikin spirit… the laid-back confidence.
They are kindred spirits. And honestly? They remind me of who we could still be—when we’re not too busy being busy.
The Night Briefing: “Tomorrow, Day 3 is Going to Be Tough”
Day 3 – Into the Rain and Over the Pass
Surprise, surprise—it’s raining.
South Island, New Zealand. Of course it is.
But here’s the upside: rain means waterfalls.
And did I mention how much New Zealanders rave about waterfalls?
Now look—I’ve always figured that once you’ve seen a great one, you’ve kind of seen them all.
But not for a Kiwi. No no—you can never have too many waterfalls.
And to be fair… in this part of the world, they are something else. In fact, the only place I’ve seen that compares in terms of mountains + water might be Patagonia.
But I digress.
We Three Koreans
Our little hut group—we three Koreans—is up early.
And yes, I’ve been adopted as an honorary Korean, ever since my cheerful attempt at good morning “annyeong haseyo” (which they assured me wasn’t too bad).
We’re up before light—big breakfast, lunch packed, full rain gear on, ready to go.
There’s something quietly thrilling about setting out in the dark.
The soft patter of rain.
The shuffle of boots.
The sense that the mountain’s awake, and you’re just catching up.
What to Pack for the Milford Track (And Why I Swear by Merino Wool)
After years of hiking through some of the world’s most rugged terrain—Everest, Kilimanjaro, Patagonia, Mont Blanc—I’ve refined my kit to what actually works. Here’s what I took on the Milford Track, what I wouldn’t hike without, and a few bonus tips to save you from blisters, snorers, and those bloody sandflies.
Essential Hiking Kit
👟 Walking Boots
- I’ve always used Asolo boots (Italian made).
- Pricey, but cheap over time—they last, and I’ve never had an issue.
🧦 Base Layer
- 100% merino wool—from any brand.
- Warm, breathable, and crucially: doesn’t stink after days of use.
🧥 Fleece or Jacket
- Again, merino. Warm and adaptable.
🌧️ Waterproof Raincoat
- I use a Mont jacket—100% windproof.
- Used this exact one on Everest, Kilimanjaro, Mont Blanc, Patagonia… and now Milford.
👕 Mid and Upper Layers
- Long-sleeved: merino wool, polypropylene, or thermal.
- T-shirt: merino (always avoid cotton).
🧢 Sunhat
- Lightweight, fits under the hood of my Mont jacket.
🧶 Beanie/Wool Hat
- Rarely need one below 3000m, but good to have.
🧤 Warm Gloves
- Always pack some. I rotate brands, but they’re essential.
🩳 Shorts/Trousers
- Love Lululemon trackies/shorts: smart, quick-dry, comfy.
🧦 Hiking Socks
- Merino wool like Icebreakers.
- I always wear two pairs—massively reduces blister risk.
Gear & Accessories
💄 Lip balm, Sunscreen, Insect repellent
- Those sandflies on the last day—still itchy.
- Also pack: earplugs (for snorers) and a mouthguard (so I don’t snore).
🥤 Water Bottle
- Any bottle works.
- I don’t like hydration bladders—too fiddly.
🩹 Strapping Tape
- Always handy.
🔦 Headtorch
- Even if not hiking at night—you’ll want it for midnight toilet runs.
🥾 Walking Poles
- I swear by Leki aluminium poles—tough, reliable, and don’t snap like carbon ones.
🌧️ Waterproof Over Trousers
- I usually hike in shorts, gaiters, and my Mont jacket, but in heavy snow/rain I’ll go for comfy overtrousers like Patagonia.
🦵 Gaiters
- I use Sea to Summit (the taller ones), but ankle gaiters would’ve done on Milford.
🩱 Swimwear & Lightweight Towel
- A cold plunge = instant body reset. Invigorating and addictive.
🪢 Spare Laces
- Always carry a pair.
🥙 Reusable Lunchbox
- Yep again.
🎒 Backpack
- 30–40L lightweight so you can carry it on a plane.
- I love Osprey or Alpine Low—super comfy, well-built.
🛂 Passport & Docs
- In a waterproof pouch/jacket.
📍AirTag
- Handy to keep tabs on your gear.
🧥 Down Jacket (Optional)
- I carry one sometimes (Mont)—didn’t need it here.
In the Lodge ( I still took too much and I had to carry the bloody extra weight)
👔 Shirt or Long-Sleeved Top
- Merino or poly. Can double as hiking gear.
🧶 Sweater/Jersey
- Again, merino. Functional and warm.
👖 Lightweight Trousers
- Good for lounging or hiking if your main gear’s wet.
👟 Lightweight Shoes
- With hard soles—your feet will love the break from boots.
🛌 Nightwear
- I use cheap merino PJs from Snowgum—simple and perfect.
🧼 Toiletries
- Just the basics.
📱 Phone & Charger
- You won’t have coverage… but it’s still useful for pics and journaling.
🩲 Underwear
- Quick-dry, hiking-specific.
🃏 Cards
- Great for group downtime.
🍫 Chocolate
- Non-negotiable.
Day 3 continued – Over the Pass
Up the mountain.
Lunch.
Over the top.
And down the other side of McKinnon Pass.
Sparkling.
That? That’s a kea—New Zealand’s cheeky alpine parrot.
And that? That’s the pass itself—rugged, steep, relentless.
It was tough.
No doubt about it.
But I’m writing this… so yes, I made it.
Fifty of us went up.
Guess how many came down stronger, wetter, hungrier—and with smiles that said we’d just done something special?
Clue: We had great guides.
Days 4 & 5 – The Home Stretch
The last two days?
Magical.
Just… not as hard.
The big climb was behind us, and what remained was more about soaking it all in—the towering cliffs, the endless waterfalls, the mossy forests, the sense of walking deeper into a place that hasn’t changed in millennia.
More laughter.
More conversations with new friends.
More quiet moments that made you stop and go: “Wow… I’m really here.”
No rush. No pressure.
Just the trail beneath your feet and a deep, quiet satisfaction in your bones.
What a Week (well a bit less than a week).
New Zealanders are great.
Genuinely good people—easygoing, grounded, quietly brilliant.
Ultimate Hikes is a truly professional outfit.
In fact, they’re the only company licensed to run these kinds of walks.
And what they’ve created on the Milford Track?
It’s one of the best experiences in the world—in any category, in any field.
The Milford Track is different from any other place I’ve been.
And here’s the kicker:
It’s actually better than the hype.
A lot better.
So go.
Go before you can’t.
No regrets.
An experience of significance.
A trip for a life well lived.
A rare, meaningful positive in a world searching for them.
